It is indicated by archeological discoveries in Ukraine that embroidery has existed there before the prehistoric times. Embroideries are found on drawings and on the oldest pieces of extant cloth that date back to 1240!
The original inspiration behind cloth embroidery was faith in the power of protective symbols. However as religion and humanity evolved it later it became a more aesthetic choice. Symbolic designs were initially incorporated into the woven cloth by means of a weaving shuttle or a needle. Interestingly most of the early symbols seen on ancient Ukrainian clothing, originate in Asia. This was a result of migrations, wars, and trade, that occurred around the territory of the Dnipro River Valley and the neighbouring areas. These early symbols were transformed into more complicated patterns through the influence of the byzantine era. During this time a new branch of embroidery came about; church embroidery, which required imported materials that demanded more complicated techniques. Over the course of time and under the influence of new artistic styles, folk embroidery and church embroidery became more differentiated. Centres of church embroidery developed in the monasteries, while cities like Kyiv Lviv and Bordy became hubs for the embroidery trade, which produced cloths decorated with folk embroidery for the Cossaks and the nolibity.
Embroidery even after this era remained popular and developed as techniques and materials were perfected. It was found that at the end of the 19th century embroidery was flourishing in three fields— in church, in folk customs, and for clothing. The oldest monuments of embroidery date back to the 6th century. Figures of people dressed in festively decorated robes were found near the village of Martynivka, Cherkasy region. The shirts on the figurines had an original patterned embroidery at chest level. Extraordinarily the uniform of ordinary Ukrainian peasants was decorated with a similar ornament just 100 years ago.
Despite the close contacts with various countries, and the influence of other peoples (the ancient Greeks and eastern tribes) on the culture of the ancient Ukrainians, Ukrainian embroidery remained basically untouched. The people's respect for their own history, traditions and rituals became the reason for the creation of a unique authentic style that has passed through the ages to the present day. It is interesting that some pagan embroidery motifs were preserved on Christian icons of the 15th century.
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